Mamallapuram Dance Festival, Tamil Nadu

Looks like the New Year wishes worked and after a year of butt-rest, finally, got the chance to go footloose!!  So, for a week, I was missed in my office as I, with my wife, was getting one-on-one with the thing I badly missed ---'somewhere far away'......India it was…and this time to beaches, asses (wild Asiatic donkey I mean), kites and dances and festivals. A very happy new year!

Got ourselves a very personalized itinerary from Ashoka Holidays, the same travel Company that arranged my Honeymoon in Rajasthan two-years back. To be precise, in 8 days, had a taste of -


1.    Mamallapuram [Tamil Nadu]- beaches, bas-relief's, rock-cuts caves, monoliths, temples and the small countryside charm that followed
2.    2 days of the-month-long Mammalapuram Dance festival... and the intrigue & claps that followed.  
3.    Kite Festival and Ahemdabad attractions and hey we missed the international kite festival by a day... and the frustration that followed. [courtesy disinformed Gujarat tourism officials]
4.    Wild Asiatic Ass sanctuary at Jainabad (2hrs from Ahemdabad)... and an excitement that followed.
5.    Of course, the train journeys that connect these Ithacas...and the experience that followed.

On 7th Jan 2009, I reached Chennai after 41 hrs train journey, including 6 hrs of delay, which cut across the Central and South-East India's countryside. Around midnight got off the train and set off for Mahabalipuram on the east coast road (ECR). At the time when north India was about fog, chill bumps, chattering teeth, cold creams, thermo cots, 'thandii '... I was amidst some pleasant off-season drizzle, on a beautiful drive in a nearing vintage ambassador car, along the coast of Bay of Bengal, towards a place that travelers long for. Well...come to south India!!

Mamallapuram

 

beaches, bas-relief, rock-cuts caves, monoliths, temples & the small countryside charm!

First few sights and sounds that made the jigsaw of a laid back morning with people and businesses slowly getting into the groove: streets lined with closely pressed houses, guest-houses, eateries and trinket shops…shadowed and disturbed by the omnipresent palm grove…colorful pots crowded near the water source…colorful early morning art Kollam, an interesting folk culture of Tamil Nadu outside many of its houses...‘chai-wala’, and the vapors and sips that follow this hot-drink, the national drink of India as Lonely Planet puts it…religious chants and clanking bells in praise of the Gods from the temples…sounds of the chisel and tools against the stone from the masons’ place...joined by the roaring and rushing waters beating the shore…purposeless walk along those waters, though purposeful for many a eye set on livelihood…boats, nets, hooks and fishermen still waiting for the clearance from the meteorological department since last week...never mind, until the green signal and the next catch, why not a beach volleyball that anyone can join...that’s subsistence versus spirit, amazing…meanwhile, the horizon change its moods and hues every moment, imbued by the incandescence of the bright orange sun, which gradually takes over the rolling froth of clouds playing mischief…on the right side, the silhouette of the not-too-far shore temple against the rising sun invites…few doing ‘surya-namaskar’…few absorbing in the coastal charm…shutterbugs going click click click …a skillful huckster to get us some shells, conch and other knickknack…the handicraft bazaar shaping up…mood takes off from here with more and more tourists and locals splashing the waters and collecting shells and looking for crabs et al gifted by the sea…yes! a poor old fisherman did succeed in catching one prized seafood…I got myself photographed with it…day moves on only to be joined by beer and sea delicacies on any seaside eatery…afternoon exploring the heritage rocks and evening booked for more sound, lights and action, that is, the Mammalapuram Dance Festival that saw the music and dance heritage of Incredible country unfolding before all…

Good morning Mahabalipuram or Mammalapuram or Mavellipor or Mamallapattana or KadalMalai or Mahamallai or Mallai or ‘Place of Seven Pagodas’!! And No, I am not cooking-names. These many names or sobriquets today are the result of a 2000 years old history wherein it played role of a flourishing seaport, a trading centre, a pilgrimage centre, and sculptural centre. Today, it’s a UNESCO’s World Heritage Site and a museum of its own 7th -8th century architectural glory and a tropical beach resort.

Afternoon got us the close-up to the architectural museum of the ancient rulers called as Pallava (fl.6-8th century AD). Our guide Mr.Balan, middle aged and knowledgeable, flooded us with the historical and mythical information abounding this place. Best thing, please note, almost all the monuments were within the walking distance. Most interesting monuments that still hangs over in my mind are the:

1.    Interestingly balanced massive stone ball, called as the Krishna butter ball, that our guide revealed as the part of the same rock on which it looks critically balanced;
2.    World’s largest open air bas-relief, 9 that depicts more than 100 remarkable life-like figures – animals, saints, kings, ascetics, ordinary human beings, hunters, river, gods, goddesses, apsaras(the fairies of the heaven) and so on. This whole art has two interpretations concerning the ascetic in Penance and hence, two names – The Arjuna’s Penance or the Bhagirath’s Penance, where Arjuna and Bhagirath are two different mythological heroes of two different periods and are assumed to be doing an austere invocation (Tapasya) to God for different reasons.  While Arjuna is seeking Pasupata, most powerful weapon, Bhagirath is seeking Holy water of Ganges to wash and purify his forefather’s souls. Ganges did descent represented by the cleft dividing the relief into two, hence, also the name Descent of the Ganges. This interpretation of Descent of the Ganges due to the penance of a Bhagirath suggests similarity to the flood myth of Noah. Also, the interpretation concerning the dubious nature of the figure of Cat standing on one leg, austerity or ensnaring a bird, suggests similarity to some character in Panchtantra, the Aesop fables of India!
3.    Paanch Pandava Rathas or Five Pandava’s Chariots that were set of five different stone temples with the look of chariots and all made in different architectural styles – apsidal shape as that of a Church, dome-shaped like a Buddhist Monastery and so on depicting the evolution of the South Indian Style of Architecture, called as Dravidian Architecture.
4.    The surf-beaten Shore temple, now around 100m inland, which furthers the transition from single-rock structures to block style. The shore temple belongs to my favorite hearsay – ‘Place of Seven Pagodas’ referring to the legend that six more Temples stood along with the Shore Temple. They got submerged. However, many people still believe they are there, somewhere, lying submerged and they did show up during the 2005 tsunami.

Mahabalipuram’s is a history as solid as its rocky monoliths and as loose as its beach sand at the same time. The moment you ignore it as just another passing thought it stands unmoved and the moment you feel you got hold of it, it slips away. Unfinished structures, unwritten records, too many an answer and too long a time. But before you overlook any hearsay or believe any particular legend evidences surface that push you to rethink e.g. we have legends that would have easily been neglected as another Indian mystic fairytales like the one about the “Seven Pagodas” and a city beautiful enough to earn the wrath of the jealous gods who destroyed it. But, we also have “Tsunami Gifts” as BBC quoted in the year 2005 when many people witnessed a complete man-made city during the retreating sea waters. It followed expeditions in and around the region since then. It was followed by the discovery of granite lion, 3 granite pillars with inscriptions of the Pallava and Chola kings, a terracotta bull, miniature lingam made out of green-stone, a copper bell, conches, terracotta lamps etc . In addition, we have many more than one legends for the various names of this place; double interpretation for the world’s largest bas-relief as Arjuna’s Penance or Bhagirath’s Penance or both; monolithic temples being called as rathas or chariot of the Pandavas despite the fact they are immovable and despite them having no relation to the Pandavas of Mahabharata, the Hindu epic, they are named after them; unfinished broad foundation of an tower called as Raya Gopuram etc.

In easy words – I am inspired, intrigued and confused by this history full of mysteries. What can one say, it’s Incredible India! Today, Mahabalipuram is under a curious scanner of archaeologists around the world to unravel and connect the missing links. Mahabalipuram, these days, sees not only the tourists frolicking on its shore line but also the divers getting deeper into its waters to unearth its age-old structures.

Also visited was the sculpture museum for more of the yesteryear’s stone art and the old and new light houses for a sprawling sea view. Besides, one late evening we took a Bike, got hold of the beautiful coast road, larking & singing and joined the turtle walk, with the personnel at the Romulus Whittaker’s Crocodile Bank (14 km), place we visited in the afternoon. On the other late evening did ‘nothing’ on the shores.

Mamallapuram Dance Festival

dance, heavenly trance, illumination, music and songs and the heirtage venue!!

No the New Year didn’t start and ended with dance, trance, lights and bash at discotheques. For my wife and so for me (!!), the mood was already set at Mahabalipuram – the quaint little seaside town of Tamil Nadu – that floored the Dances of India every evening for a month-long Mammalapuram Dance Festival from 25th Dec 2008 to 25th Jan 2009. Dance, heavenly trance, illumination, music and songs were all here as well. Only difference – this was an Open-air Live Performance of Indian Heritage of Tribal, Folk and Classical Dances and against the impressive backdrop of Arjuna’s Penance, the 7th century massive bas-relief monolith. For 2 hours and for 2 evenings we witnessed the richness of Indian heritage in its simplicity of folk and sophistication of the classical dances. We saw 6 dances in all and a group singing performance. You can't ask for more, in this much time!

1st evening, five minutes’ walk and we were there at the venue, that is, Arjuna’s Penance:

1.    Vasant Raas, the classical dance of Manipuri Dance, North East India…
The month-long dance festival was already in the midway but for us, Vasant Raas, ‘Dance of The Spring” formed the first impression about the event. And the very first thing that captures cameras and eyes were, definitely the amazing basket-like costumes, decorated as if keeping the divinity in mind. And yes, it meant the same. It represented ‘Ras Lila’ the dance of India’s most famous god, Krishna and his beloved Radha and her sakhis (friends). A slow motioned and soft dance, esp. compared to the ones that followed, with subtle moves and gestures it enacts the lyrics from the classical poetries. ‘Poetry in Motion’ we can say. The accompanying melodic Himalayan music tuned by cymbals, flute, pung (drum) and pena (stringed instrument) with the lyrical recital was soothing and acted as a ‘very different welcome’ to our first Dance festival in India!

2.    Daang Dance, the Tribal Dance from Gujarat, Western India….
Watch out!! Come the Dangis from the Western India…they look in a hurry…perhaps making up for the slow-pace of the dance that preceded it. The stage was washed with the energy and rhythm of the Daang Dance. All eyes and ears were glued to and plugged into the performance of a dozen young men and women dancing in a circular motion, making the 2-3 tier human pyramid, forming the human ratha (chariot) and suchlike to the an equally paced tempo of the high pitched acoustics dominated by two Sehnai-like wind instrument that sounded like that of a bagpiper or an Indian snake-charmer’s woodwind (been or pungi). The dance that actually made the crowd go ‘once more!’

3.    Kalbeliya Dance or the Snake Dance of Rajasthan, North-West India…
We thought we will miss the deserts this time around. Luckily, it followed us! Already a destination that’s easy to locate on the world tourist map, here too, Rajasthan made its presence felt. The swirling snake dance or the dance of Kalbeliya (‘Kal’ meaning Snake and the ‘beliya’ meaning ‘friend’) refreshed the memories of our Rajasthani sojourn of 2007. The fast and graceful swirls, the cheerful grin of the dancers, the long black skirt, the dangling ribbons called gota, the always flowing stole,  flexible moves like that of a snake, the energy, an unabated singing style…were all the same. The only thing different was the venue and the backdrop, which can be a welcome break to travelers.

Also…there was a full-throttled folk and Sufi songs performance by a group from Rajasthan!! Earlier heard from my Indian friends, now realized that the cultural and heritage stages or talks of India cannot be complete without an exhibit from the colorful deserts of Rajasthan.

2nd evening was dedicated to the Dances of the host state, Tamil Nadu, itself

4.    Bharatnatyam, The Classical Dance of Tamil Nadu...
Well, the dancing girls, usually sculpted on the Indian temples, came alive that evening. Or it felt so.
 
After invocation to the almighty, Shrikala Bharat, the beautiful and renowned danseuse and the performer for the evening, enlightened the audience, initially with the verbal rendition of the what-how-when-where of the art of Bharatnatyam and later, following the words with her savoir-faire. Through her narration we learnt the meaning of Bharatnatyam that lies in its very etymology, which is, Expression (BHava) + Music (RAga) + Rhythm (TAal) + DANCE (NATYAM). And through her live performance we felt the essence of it.
 
Bhaav, raag, taal and natyam all fell in place that evening to depict different themes: from the ferocious goddesses of the mythology who slew the evil to an ode to the brave lady of modern India, Queen of Jhansi, who took the arms for the freedom of her nation and from the love tussle between the lord and her lover to a pure devotional one. Even if you didn’t get it all that I promise you won’t (if you aren’t regular to it), you will be mesmerized in and by the heavenly aura created by all the elements collectively. The beautifully adorned performer, her impressive green and yellow silk sari and temple jewelries, her statuesque dance and the interesting pantomime, in between verbal-narration to keep the audience in loop with Padam, Varnam, Javeli, Shabdam etc and other aspects of the dance, the accompanying south Indian music and its ensemble of mridangam, flute etc, the lights, the amazing sculptural backdrop and so on. The look and feel of the dance and the dancer and music and the musicians shows how well choreographed and disciplined this art is. Respect and thanksgiving to the supreme god becomes the motif in this graceful celebration of the body in rhythm with the music which appeals to the senses and the soul, all the gift of the almighty.
 
Today’s world-known Bharatnatyam is an early 20th century’s renaissance of more than two-thousand years old dance form called as Dasiattam, Cathir or Karnatakam, meaning the temple dances performed by the Devdasis (girls who dedicated their lives to the temple, rites and rituals, after their symbolic marriage to the gods). view more on video
 
5.    ‘Poila Kuthneathaim’ or Peacock Dance or Horse Dance, Folk dance of Tamil Nadu...
It’s a Tamilian Dance of joy timed around the harvest festival of Pongal. Artists masqueraded as Peacock and Horses mimicked the mannerisms of the bird and the animal to a very loud and lively music and did movements and cute tricks like using its beak to get hold of the 10 rupees note or to drink juice from the glass or putting garland on itself etc. * A basic research on answers.com told me that the long-flaring-wind-instrument which produced this music is the World’s loudest non-brass instrument! It’s called Nadaswaram and is the most popular and an auspicious classical instrument of Southern India played in temples and Hindu Marriages. Together with the pair of percussion Thavil, it lends music to the many a ceremony and festivals of South India, like this one!

6.    Karagam, folk dance of TN…
To the accompaniment of the same loud and lively music, the artist entered the scene carrying pots on their head, piled and decorated with flowers, ribbons, and a paper bird atop. Here too, the artists in colorful attires and ankle-bells did few tricks like getting blindfolded and breaking the coconut, in someone’s hand, in one shot of a strong wooden and also cutting the bananas into two halves with a sword taking care of the person on whose torso the fruit was placed…opening the air-tight slice bottle without the use of hands et al. This dance is a popular temple dance in villages and is done in honor of the goddess of rain and health, Mariamman, who also protects her disciples from diseases small pox and cholera. The Peacock dance and the Karagam did receive the cheer of the crowd as soon as any trick succeeded.

Initially, I asked my wife for any five reasons to invest our time and money on some Dance festival in some part of India, to which came her retort:

1.    “The festival of Indian Dances… classical and all...performed by the best in the field…I have been waiting for such a thing and Khajuraho Dance festival is late”
2.    “Weather’s great at the tropics”
3.    “Venue is a beach resort and its beaches are inviting”
4.    “Venue’s a world heritage site too and the bas relief is the largest in the world”
5.     “I have made my mind and you’re coming, the fifth one!”

A man of sound reason and quick decision, I could easily sense the logic in the fifth reason and readily joined her humming “Be, what you wanna be, taking things the way they come, nothing is as nice as agreeing to your wife and sipping on the tropical fun…here in Mahabalipuram!!”. No doubt, mine was a good decision.

Anyway, thanks to suchlike efforts as Mammalapuram Dance festival of Tamil Nadu Tourism Department that bring alive and showcase our human heritage and culture of ‘joie-de-vivre’ over the centuries.

The Kite Festival at Ahemdabad

patang, dor, charkhi, manjha, tukals and undhiyo & jalebi

“What is common between Mahatma Gandhi, Vainamoinen, Tiger, Freja, and Panto & Djesel?” A useless hint would be – Mahatma Gandhi needs no introduction, Vainamoinen is a bearded Finish folk hero; Freja is someone’s late beloved dog in Sweden; Tiger hails from Mumbai and Panto & Djesel are the giant puppets from France. Ok, without any more of hints & teasers, I will clear the air about these characters and which is, they all made their presence felt on the grounds and skies of Ahemdabad during the International Kite Festival 2009. Except for the giant 15 ft. puppets, Panto and Djesel, all were basically the themes of the kites with which their maker set them flying high.   read more

It’s a 2 hrs drive to Jainabad where things were arranged at Desert Courses, a little off-the road which is a challenge to locate for a non-local driver.

We slept late because of the excitement of being in the wild after a year.  And woke up early for the same reason. It took some 30-mins drive to actually enter the sanctuary. It started with the terrain becoming flat, white and broken and cracked as if it’s a once-upon-a-time’s sea-bed and now bereft of water.

With no-wildlife in vision soon we reached a point when our 4X4 was cruising directionless very much like the other tire-trails criss-crossing each other aimlessly on a flat-white-cracked-marshy landform, seemingly unending & uninterrupted till horizon. read more